Welcome to the October version of Sew Japan for Mie. I can't actually believe that I'm keeping this season appropriate. That was absolutely my plan with this one-post-a-month-for-a-full-year-idea but I wasn't sure I was going to pull it off. But here we are, in the middle of fall and with a fall coat. Halleluja!

For once I'm actually sewing a pattern made for knit in knit haha. I feel like lately all I've been doing have been to sew patterns made for woven fabric in knit.

I made it in sweatshirt fleece and it will be perfect for her to bring to school where they have early recess time and the air is still cold. And easy to stuff in her bag in the afternoon for pickup when the day is usually warm here in the South for a few more months.

Here is the book and pattern illustration. As you can see, this is one of the many translated Japanese sewing books that Tuttle offers. This book is for younger girls. The size range is 90-120 (cm tall) / 35-48 (inches tall) which should sort of cover 1 to 8 year olds.

I made her the biggest size in the book which is size 120. Now my daughter is turning 7 in January but she is also taller than 120 cm. I think this size is perfect for her and it's roomy enough to wear with a sweater under but it's not more than that. What I'm trying to say is, that I don't think it would fit many 8 year olds. But hey, it's not a hard pattern to make a little bit bigger.

I'm not sure where I bought the blue sweatshirt fleece but the grey with swan prints is from Miss Matatabi. The fabric is crazy narrow and I only bought 0.5 meter (I think that was all there was left?), so I'm so happy that I managed to get so much out of it as here. Hoodie, front and back yoke plus pockets. Yes!

I'm not sure I love the way I sewed on the pockets but I don't hate it enough to redo them. My idea was to stitch them on with raw edges...a bit like you would do with certain types of fur....but my cutting was not very precise and it looks a bit messy.

The inside of the coat is a nice contrast to the messy pockets though. I had some fun with bias tape and I once again was surprised with how much extra that adds to a garment compared to the small-ish effort it is to sew it on.

I promised to show some close up photos of the insides and I didn't realize how hard that apparently turned out to be. I took some close up photos when she was wearing the coat and they all turned out blurred. Then I took some more afterwards and they were not much better. But at that point I was done trying and this is what you get, haha. I cranked up the clarity which is why it looks so weird but hopefully it helps with the details?!

So first I covered the hoodie hem seam with wide (double fold) bias tape. Then I stitched the hem like I would have if it was finished with a serged seam. Then I covered the outer edge of the front seam of the bodice with normal width bias tape (wide would work too, I just didn't have enough), which later will be the inside finish of the front placket when folded.
After I sewed the hoodie on the neck seam of the bodice (RTR), I covered that seam with wide bias tape. I could have left it at that but decided to stitch down the bias covered seam to the bodice. And when I say 'covered' I basically just mean sewed it on...no magic or secret tricks. But I do have THIS tutorial for multiple tricks with bias tape.

Yeah, she loves it! It's exactly up her alley, being soft and stretchy and having a hoodie. I added rib to finish the sleeves. That keeps the cold out nicely plus it extends the length of the sleeve.

There was one thing I didn't love about this pattern. If you look at the pattern illustration again, it shows gatherings of the bodice under the front and back yokes. But the bodice seam is only 1.5 cm longer than the yoke seam. In other words there is basically nothing left to gather. It would look like bad sewing/puckering haha. Especially in this thicker fabric. So I made one inward pleat on each front yoke plus one centered at the back, just so it looks like there is some kind of purpose with them. If you look carefully you can see one front pleat on the photo above. If I made it again (which is very likely) I would slash and spread the bodice pattern pieces to add some more substantial gatherings.

A quick look from the back. No surprises there, hehe.

Oh, and if you missed these pants when I originally blogged them, they are from a Japanese pattern too, then you can read that post HERE. And I apologize for the wrinkles...You know I iron so much during the sewing process that my iron rate is done afterwards, haha.

We had two fabulous link ups last month and of course I'm going to feature them both. Especially because they are both amazing. To the left you have Paisley Roots and to the right Sweeter Than Cupcakes. They even look good together with the navy and the flower prints. I love both outfits!

Below we have a new link party open for November. We can't wait to see what you make. Don't forget to tag your social media posts with #sewjapan and #projectsewit. Thank you so much!

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