It is the last day of June and I'm back with another Sew Japan with Mie. Welcome!
I have made a cropped, loose fitting shirt with classic shirt details like a front placket, a yoke, collar band and collar and the sleeves are finished with a bias bound slit and a cuff. But the oversized fit, added gathers and pleats and the fun asymmetrical shape of the pockets make it look super cool and also more relaxed/cool than a regular shirt in my opinion.
As you might remember from my Instagram feed, I received this book She Wears the Pants as a present from my wonderful friend and series host Celina and I think I actually gasped when I saw this shirt in the book. They are showing it in white thin poplin with some cool black pants and it's the most amazing outfit. It's not necessary how I dress myself but it's still a style that I absolutely love to look at and is inspired by. I'm still looking for some thin, textured and one-colored fabric in natural fibers with a great drape to make another one. With that few demands it should be easy to find, right.....ahem.
I do love the fabric I found for this one too though. It's a thin, loose-woven double gauze from Michael Miller Fabrics - designed by Sarah Jane. I literally had to force my hand to not choose the blue ones, like this 'blueberry'. I wanted something that screamed summer so I went with this light aqua/mint one.....but I still want that blueberry one too haha.
Like I have already mentioned, this is loose woven and I already had a few places where the fabric is unravelling/pulling apart so be prepared for that. The fabric is definitely not to be used for anything tight fitting. And I'm not criticizing the fabric, just making sure you use it for the correct project. Time will show if this was one of them, yikes.
Since the design is hand painted stripes (not sure if they are actually hand painted but you know what I mean!) it also made stripe matching a bit of a challenge - as you can see above on my side seam. I did it as good as I could and then moved on with my life.
I was mostly interested it making an as-good-as-possible stripe match at the center front, so I cut the two front pieces to fold, and then cut open the fold. That way you will have the same stripes on left and right side seam.
I love the back. It has the perfect amount of width but it requires really thin and drapy fabric to avoid the tent look. If your fabric is more stiff I would reduce the width of the back piece a little bit.
I cut my outer back yoke on the bias and then interfaced it with fusible interfacing not cut on the bias. That way I was able to control it better. Loose woven and cut on the bias fabric does not make a very easy controllable pair. Yikes.
At first I was confused about the front and back yoke. Normally a yoke eliminates the shoulder seam and is made in one piece. But here it has a reason. They have added shape in that shoulder seam (it is slightly curved) so even though it makes the finished result look less clean cut, it helps create a better fit for the oversized drooping shoulder and armscye seams.
There are four sizes in the book: XS-L. I made the size S because when we are talking oversize there is usually room for my not size S shoulders and arms. The only thing I changed was the width of the sleeve cuff. The circumference needed to be muuuch bigger. Firstly I don't have size S arms and second I'm much taller (and have longer arms) than what the patterns are drafted for, so the sleeve stops much higher up on me....and the arms get bigger the higher up we go, right! I would recommend that you cut and sew everything but the sleeve cuff if you are in the same situation. Close up the pleats at the end of the sleeve with pins and try it on - and make sure your slit in the sleeve is closed up too when you do this). If that is too small, then you can always make the depth of the pleats smaller (which makes the sleeve circumference at the bottom bigger). Maybe also cut a strip of muslin fabric and pin it on like a mock sleeve cuff to make sure it fits you comfortably. There is nothing more annoying than a cuff that is a bit too tight and doesn't move freely on your arm when you move, so spend some time getting that fit right.
I also thought I needed to add length to the shirt itself. In fact I have made another one - you can call it a wearable muslin) and I added 5 cm (2") to the finished length and was quite happy with that. THEN I went on vacation and apparently erased my brain because I came home, cut the new fabric (I didn't feel the first one showed the details of the shirt that well) and forgot that I had not added the extra length to the paper pattern, I add just added it while I was cutting. Oooops! SO this is the original length and I actually totally love that length. Perfect for high waisted items like this Pleated Pencil Skirt from Delia Creates.
Oh and I changed one more thing....I made the collar pointy instead of round. I felt it made it a bit more cool.
Thank you to all of you who linked up! A new link party is now open. And don't forget to tag your social media posts containing Japanese makes with #sewjapan #projectsewit